After having a nice darshan at Gangotri in the morning, we were scheduled to reach Gangnani, at 56 kms distance. We would have covered some distance smoothly and then all vehicles came to a halt. We noticed that on the previous day the traffic snarl started after we crossed a bridge at Sukhi Top area. This time, we were stopped just before we reached the same bridge, a couple of kms. away.
Slowly people started getting out of the vehicles – could see line of cars in front and behind us. Like us, most people were returning from Gangotri and had undergone a harrowing experience on previous day.
The place was beautiful with a mountain range and a valley, with stream flowing into the Bhagirathi river. We enjoyed a photo session there. Then there was music continuously to keep us engaged and sing along. Old Hindi melodies were our favourite. Even our driver commented that he thoroughly enjoyed the music being played.
We could see a helipad in the valley. Every now and then we could see a handful of people getting out of cars to get into the helicopters landing and taking off from there.
Learning from our previous day’s experience we had sufficient stock of water, biscuits, bananas and other snacks for any contingency.
Interestingly some people from a tempo traveller in front started collecting logs, making fire to prepare noodles. It was difficult to make fire with cold breeze blowing, but they succeeded. Watching these activities kept us engaged for some time.
Having known that tea was available a couple of kms. from there, my husband and son started off to have some and bring back if possible. It was almost an hour that they had tea and brought few tiny packets of Kurkure. Later, my son and daughter-in-law went exploring a little further beyond the bridge, and got us hot and tasty Maggie noodles which kept us going for some time. Maggie points are very common in hilly areas.
For me, making notes for my blogs on the mobile and writing about the previous day’s and the present day hold up for Face Book to be uploaded when the network resumes kept my mind fully occupied. That really helped me to pass time fruitfully and keep myself cool, not worrying about the situation that we were in.
The huge rocks and trees on the mountain slopes became make shift washrooms for all. The drivers who are regular on such travels were comparing this route with that of Badrinath and Kedarnath, saying that those routes are quite developed and it is only this route that continues to be same as decades before.
All said and done, what we all appreciated on both these occasions was that the patience displayed by the people – hats off to them – no panic, no swearing at each other, just walking around and conversing. There was just one incident of one car with outstation registration trying to bypass and squeeze in to get in the front. Everyone sprang into action, rushed there and peacefully handled the situation. He was made to reverse and come back to his position. But we felt bad later, when passengers of two cars who wanted to take the helicopter to Kedarnath, were also stopped and not allowed to go.
When at last some movements happened, we crossed the bridge, but again slowed down and ultimately stopped. It was pitch dark and that is when all of us were a bit tense – though every one tried to put up a brave front to each other. Later on when we were discussing, all of us admitted the tension and how each one of us had plans mentally how to tackle the contingency of getting stuck there the whole night!!!!
In all these, what was baffling was the poor response from authorities – be it State Police force or BRO authorities on both the days. Interestingly the same volunteer who was engaged in efforts to streamline the traffic running up and down was again seen in action. He also had a chat with us.
The other point was that we were stopped for over 6 – 7 hours in just one place, with no vehicle from opposite side. Had we been stopped to give way to pilgrims going up Gangotri we would have understood. Had they allowed movement lot by lot, allowing one side to move forward, stop them and allow the other side to move at regular intervals, things would definitely have been managed much better. There were rows of vehicles at least three levels on the opposite side mountains far off, none of which also moved till sunset. Questions that disturb me even now why we were made to stop that way with no action till sunset and why no policemen at all till then?
Much later, after the vehicles started moving we could see a couple of policemen running hither and thither. At one point where hardly two vehicles could pass through, we found buses being maneuvered through with help from army men. That was a point when the situation was so precarious, any judgment error could cause a mishap. It was then that we saw some limited activity by some army men, but that was only to take through their convoy, after which they also disappeared!
By about 1045 or so the journey picked up speed. We reached the hotel by about 11.15 pm. Expected to reach by Lunch and reached well past much the dinnertime!!!
It is pure poor planning by the authorities. Pilgrims had registered online much before the temples were opened and looking at the number of vehicles itself the authorities should have sprung into action. Or at least after the first day or two when they came to know the enormity of the problem. Disallowing bigger tourist vehicles on such routes or fixing particular timings for them and restricting number of Registrations per day would have helped. We were told that on the first day itself there were record number of Yatris visiting the four Dhams, equally to the number of Yatris put together for the first ten days. Imagine!!! Thank God, there was no stampede.
Next day’s Hindi newspaper carried a write up about the traffic havoc on Gangotri route and how some persons lost their lives on the way. That report told us that we were right to count our blessings and kept engaged ourselves happily through the journey.
There was an unpleasant episode as we were to reach the Hotel which marred all our enthusiasm for some time. Our Hotel was on a lane on the right side of the road and we could see the turning as we were coming. But the policemen did not allow us to take right turn to the obstructed by the vehicles waiting to go towards Gangotri and blocking our way. Instead, they wanted us to go ahead and the driver had no option. We tried to reason with the Policemen on duty to allow us to cross over to the hotel, but they stood their ground and asked us to go ahead take a U turn and join the queue of cars going towards Gangotri and then come in the turn when the whole lot of vehicles moves. That means we stand there for hours again!!! Vehicles already in the queue knew that we were only going to the hotel and not coming in their way and were prepared to help and make way, but the policemen was quite unreasonable and won’t budge, telling us that we can alight there and walk up to the Hotel. Luggage can reach with the car when the queue moves, he said. That we were four senior citizens who have endured 13 hours traffic snarl up from Gangothri evoked no sympathy. We all were tired and irritated and gave a piece of our mind to the Policemen, almost to the level of shouting and threatening and walked over in protest. Just as we walked and were about to reach the hotel, which was less than 100 meters away, the driver came with the car. He had watched the scenario but had the presence of mind to come to the turning point where the drivers readjusted and allowed the vehicle to enter the lane, much to the dismay of policemen. Total lack of empathy, understanding and stubborn nature of the policemen made us all wonder.
Here again, our hotel was just few meters from the Riverbed. We had some dinner and slept off to the lullaby of River Bhagirathi flowing by the sides of the Hotel. It was a small village and the hotel facilities were not up to the mark. But then the food was good and homely type. We had few hours to good sleep before our take off for Tehri Dam in the morning.
Last part of Uttarakhand journey – stay at Tehri Dam and Rishikesh in my next……
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