From Uttarkashi as we proceeded to Gangotri after a traffic snarl of over an hour, little did we realize that we are going to face a much larger one very soon.
We were busy enjoying the scenes of mountains and the flowing Bhagirathi river and glimpses of Apple orchards on the slopes. We have heard that Village Harsil is famous for its apple orchards and that is supposed to be very sweet. Unfortunately we could only see the orchards and not buy any.
After Manari dam we may have gone a very small distance covering Sukhi Top area and after crossing a bridge to the next mountain the traffic came to a sudden stop. It was past 2.30 pm and as per Google map we were scheduled to reach Gangotri around 3 pm. Even after an hour there was no movement and the driver said there is a long queue of vehicles waiting both in front and behind us.
When there was some movement also, hardly we would have covered half a km and then again stopped. The main problem we found was that there were huge buses plying on both directions and most part of the road was wide enough for one only bus to pass. More over there were sharp bends where buses could not easily turn. On the sides of the road, parts of rocks were protruding making it difficult for larger vehicle like buses or tempo travellers to pass. Later on we got to know that about 800-900 tourist buses had gone up to Gangotri in that one day. The vehicles going upwards had to be stopped to allow these buses to return from Gangotri.
Thus moving few meters and stopping and the wait continued for hours. Our driver and several others with whom we had conversation that day kept saying that in all their career of over 20-25 years plying on this route, none have ever faced this sort of a traffic jam on this route. The previous night at the hotel when a group of women from Maharashtra were saying that they got stuck on road for 13 hours while returning from Yamunotri, our driver consoled us saying that Yamunotri route was very narrow and we need not worry since it does not happen on Gangotri route.
Our plan was to reach the hotel at Gangotri, have lunch and go for the Ganga Aarti after 630 PM. But slowly it dawned on us that we will never be able to make it for the Aarti and were wishing at least we reach by dinner time. Thank God we had good stock of water and food items like biscuits, snacks and nuts with which we could manage somehow. But there came a time when our stock of water was dwindling and we had to be careful.
Fortunately that was when the vehicles again came to a halt just few feet away from a small stream flowing from the top. That was pure water from melted snow. Nearby we could see some stones covered with snow as well. Though the stream was small, it was like God sent for many of the travellers, who got down from the buses and cars and filled their bottles. We too filled all our bottles. The water was ice cold and tasted really sweet.
Being mountainous terrain, with no shops etc. on road sides, there was no facility for washrooms, which was a big tension for all. It was as if everyone was waiting for time to move, evening to be darker to relieve themselves. At one point, the vehicles stopped for long duration, permitting time for us to walk down and relieve ourselves behind big rocks. Since every one was in the same situation, no one bothered and all were in fact helping each other to find safe places.
During all these hours we could see volunteers moving up and down, trying to get the cars stopped in such a way to allow maximum space for the opposite traffic. One particular person attracted everyone’s attention, as he would pass by us every time the car stopped. To straighten the parked vehicles each time, he would check position of each vehicle and comment on the obstruction or alignment to traffic. Our driver initially got very irritated as he was being asked to move towards the edge or towards the next car. His was a brand new car on its first journey and extremely careful about it. Moreover, on the sides, there was not even space for a person to step out and what we could see was deep valley several feet below. He also doubted the motive thinking that the volunteer was doing it for some selfish reason may be to get space for his vehicle to pass. But we realized this was not the case and he was a true volunteer. In that process, it was as though he would have walked more than the distance to Gangotri – up and down. Towards late evening one or two police men showed up. Otherwise it was purely volunteers only.
By the time we reached the Hotel it was around 1130 pm. For a distance of about 20-25 kms., it took us more than 7-8 hours . Just before we reached Gangotri, we got another shock when the driver told us that vehicles are not allowed to go beyond a particular point and we may have to walk to the hotel. Unfortunately, being so late into the night, even porters who are generally available there to take the luggage. Had we known this earlier, we would have at least sorted out our bags and taken only essential things for the day.
To top it all, it was freezing cold and also drizzling, the temperature being about 2-4 degree that time. Since we were expected to reach during day time, none of us were wearing proper warm clothes, though we were carrying it. We somehow managed to dig into the bags and took out some shawls and sweaters and dragged our luggage to the hotel – a little less than a kilometer. The hotel was on the banks of Ganges and we crossed the river an iron bridge. In the night, however, it was too cold and we were so tired that we hardly noticed the beauty of the Ganges or the Temple in front of the hotel. Thankfully, the hotel had kept ready some hot dinner for us, since we had requested informed them of the situation. That simple dinner served hot, made as somewhat comfortable.
Astonishingly for us, the next day morning was quite sunny. We all felt quite fresh and energetic after a night’s sleep. The hotel Bhagirati Sadan that we stayed was just in front of Ganges, few meters from the river and the Gangotri temple. After having hot and fresh breakfast of Porottas and noodles and got ready for the darshan.
The temple was just across and we only had to cross the iron bridge.
The darshan took very little time since my nephew had already arranged that for us. We first met the main Pujari of the temple and spent some time with him at the Vedanta Gangotri Nilayam. The Pujari also said that there was an unprecedented heavy rush of devotees when the Temple opened this year. He also was of the view that of late more than pilgrimage, people were taking it as entertainment and more into selfies and videography.
We proceeded for Darshan of the main deity, Goddess Ganga in a beautiful temple made of white granite. This is stated to be the highest temple for Goddess Ganga. Since we were allowed directly without standing in the long winding queue of the day, that saved a lot of our time.
Other shrines in the complex were that of Lord Siva, Lord Ganesha and Lord Hanuman where we paid homage. We could see some devotees coming in with the accompaniment of bands carrying a decorated palanquin on their heads for offering it at the shrine.
The temple premises was full of people doing Aarti of Ganga Maiya, devotees taking dip and also performing various kinds of pujas.
The water was ice cold and we merely sprinkled some water on us. Of course, in the past, we have had dips in Ganges at many other places like Hardwar, Rishikesh, Banares, and Allahabad. We spent some time walking around and enjoying the scenic beauty of the place and the rhythmic music of the water flowing in Ganges.
The view from the hotel and also from the iron bridge of both the Ganges and the snow-clad mountains was quite panoramic. On our way to this place, we were excited to catch glimpses of snow clad mountain peaks from very far off and were struggling to photograph them.
Then little did we imagine then that at Gangotri we will be able to see them from so very near.
Indeed, we all felt blessed that despite some inconveniences due to the delay, at least we were fortunate to have the Darshan conveniently as well as enjoy the panoramic view around in such good weather. We had decided on darshan at one of the Dhams and that could be achieved successfully, as compared to several pilgrims who had to abandon it all half way.
By about 1030 we were ready to proceed to our next destination – Gangnani – which was only 56 kms from there, which normally would take about two hours. But then, what was in store for us on our return?
More about that in my next……..
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